FOR STANDARD LPG PROPANE FIRED
NOT APPLICABLE TO OIL JACKET AND THERMOSTAT CONTROL EQUIPMENT.
If you feel you would like to comment or to add to the information, please email us at email@example.com and we will try to include your comments in a future edition.
CLICK HERE FOR MAXIMUM RECOMMENDED WIND SPEEDS FOR ROOF WORK
FAILURE TO TAKE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS OR TO USE ADDITIONAL SAFETY EQUIPMENT AS NECESSARY FOR YOUR PARTICULAR JOB COULD LEAD TO A SERIOUS ACCIDENT. THIS IS NOT A COMPLETE STATEMENT OF USE AND DOES NOT ATTEMPT TO PROVIDE EXHAUSTIVE INFORMATION ON THE SAFE USE OF THE EQUIPMENT, MATERIALS OR TECHNIQUES. IT SHOULD BE CONSIDERED ONLY AS GENERAL ADVICE TO BE READ WITH YOUR INDUSTRY AND LPG ITA GUIDELINES.
BITUMEN BOILERS AND PLANT USE PROPANE GAS ONLY AT A PRESSURE OF 0 - 2 BAR. USE ONLY ARMOURED HIGH PRESSURE HOSE.
Information given applies only to this style of
FARVIS boiler with/without a run off tap.
THERE IS A RED DATA INFORMATION STICKER ON THE CASING WHICH MUST BE LEGIBLE
( Further stickers are available from the manufacturer). Information from the FARVIS web site www.farvis.co.uk.
IT IS THE RESPONSIBILITY OF THE USER TO ENSURE THAT THE
EQUIPMENT IS SUITABLE FOR THE INTENDED PURPOSE AND THAT
OPERATION AND MANAGEMENT COMPLIES WITH ALL SAFETY AND OTHER
LEGISLATION AND REQUIREMENTS. AS WE CAN NOT KNOW OF OTHER USES
TO WHICH OUR EQUIPMENT MIGHT BE PUT, THE RESPONSIBILITY FOR SAFETY
RESTS ENTIRELY WITH THE USER. ADDITIONALLY, THE LOCATION OF THE
UNIT AND THE MATERIAL HEATED MAY AFFECT SAFETY PRECAUTIONS,
EQUIPMENT, PERSONAL PROTECTION AND OPERATING PROCEDURES.
PARTS OF THIS INFORMATION MAY REFER TO OTHER TYPES OF EQUIPMENT AND
FACTORY FITTED OPTIONS. PLEASE IDENTIFY THE SECTIONS THAT REFER
TO YOUR EQUIPMENT.
PARTS OF THIS EQUIPMENT INCLUDING LIFTING HANDLES, PAN RIM AND LID WILL BECOME VERY HOT IN SERVICE. DO NOT TOUCH THESE PARTS DURING OR IMMEDIATELY AFTER OPERATION - ALLOW TIME TO COOL.
FARVIS EQUIPMENT IS FOR INDUSTRIAL PROCESS USE ONLY. IT HAS NO
INTENDED FUNCTION OTHER THAN FOR HEATING, PREPARATION AND
APPLICATION OF INDUSTRIAL SEALANT. BITUMEN BOILERS AND
ASSOCIATED EQUIPMENT HAVE BEEN DEFINED AS "INDUSTRIAL PROCESSEQUIPMENT" AND HAVE NO "COMMERCIAL" OR "DOMESTIC" FUNCTION.
SAFETY & GENERAL
FARVIS equipment will give long and Reliable service provided if correctly operated and maintained. Like any power tool or specialist equipment, it must be used carefully and sensibly by an operator who has an appreciation of the benefits and limitations of the process involved.
To use this equipment safely requires a sound working knowledge of the procedures, common sense, additional safety equipment depending on the job and location and personal protective equipment. Hot bitumen can reach temperatures as high as 300 oC and will inflict severe burns if it comes into contact with your skin. It is also flammable. LPG is a safe, clean and efficient but like any flammable gas it requires correct handling to avoid danger.
You must also maintain the boiler, valves, gas fittings and other items of your equipment. No product is everlasting and in time this equipment will wear out - how quickly depends on how you maintain it and how often it is used. The life of the boiler is largely dependent on the care shown in its use but when the time comes, it must be replaced. Failure to do so could lead to an accident.
Spares are available from stock and to continue to use damaged or defective equipment is unnecessary. Defective or unchecked equipment risks your own safety, that of your workmates and possibly members of the public as well as major damage to property.
Ensure that you know how to operate this equipment safely. Read and understand your trade association safety leaflets, HSE publications and LPG ITA codes of practice. Do not allow inexperienced or untrained personnel people to use the boiler or handle hot material. Anyone not directly involved must be kept well away from the equipment and the walkways to and from the point of use.
All inspections and changing of cylinders and gas lines must be done by someone familiar with this type of equipment. One of the team must be appointed the 'pot man' with direct and continuous responsibility for the safe management, temperature control and operation of the boiler, gas and associated equipment.
ENSURE THAT THE PUBLIC AND ANY ONE NOT DIRECTLY INVOLVED ARE KEPT WELL AWAY FROM THE EQUIPMENT.
Suitable personal protective clothing must be worn at all times. This includes full length heavy clothing, suitable footwear, face and eye protection and heavy safety gloves. Do not breathe smoke and fumes from the boiler as these may be a long term health risk. Ensure that any splashes do not come into contact with your skin. Bitumen splashes can also come from application of the material and you need protective clothing for your legs. Do not tuck your trousers into your boots - they could fill up with spilled material and do very serious harm to your legs. In Summer it is very tempting to work in light clothing. Consider the risks before you do this - it could turn a minor incident into a major accident.
DO NOT BREATHE SMOKE OR FUMES FROM HOT BITUMEN ( OR THE VAPOURS GIVEN OFF FROM COLD APPLIED SEALANTS EITHER !) - THESE COULD BE A HEALTH RISK.
GAS CYLINDERS & REGULATORS
Propane ( orange ) cylinders only can be used with this equipment. Propane gas is considerably heavier than air and highly inflammable. It has a 'stench agent' added which gives a filthy smell to warn you of a leak.
All FARVIS boilers are designed to work at 0 - 2 bar ( 0 - 30 psi ) with an adjustable regulator. Thermostat controlled units must NOT exceed this or the equipment will be damaged. Some gas torches are supplied with a different regulator kit which should be replaced with an identical type if necessary. Torches have separate instructions.
All boilers and burner stands MUST be fitted with high pressure armoured gas hose ( i.e. with an exterior braid or metal spiral ) with a minimum length of 4 metres.
Orange HIGH PRESSURE HOSE WITHOUT METAL REINFORCEMENT IS NOT SUITABLE FOR USE WITH BITUMEN HEATING EQUIPMENT AND MUST NOT BE FITTED TO BOILERS.
Drying off torches can use a heavy duty orange hose.
A leaking hose is extremely dangerous and a huge waste of fuel. All hoses MUST be to BS standard and MUST be replaced annually. We most strongly recommend that gas hoses are factory made with pre fitted screw ends.
Regulators and fittings deteriorate and the hose and regulator set should be considered a service item with a maximum life of 12 months. Depending on the use and condition this can be extended but for hard worked equipment the life shoudl be considered as one year. We can provide a suitable regulator, hose and couplings set, assembled and ready to fit, as an accessory.
All gas connections and joints MUST be properly made and the equipment should be inspected before each and every use. All screwed connections should be firmly tightened with a spanner.
If the hose is damaged or covered in bitumen
it MUST be replaced immediately and the appliance put out of
service until this is done.
Fittings for all FARVIS mushroom type burners and
regulators are 1/4" BSP thread. Standard regulators
have a 1/4" female thread on the body. We
can supply a factory made hose and regulator set as an
accessory. Some mesh burners and other units supplied without a
pre made hose set may have a hose nozzle connector. In
this case the correct gas pipe ( 1/4" in most cases ) must be connected
with 'o' clip compression fittings. It is recommended that
this is done by your dealer. If you order equipment
at a later date, please specify the burner type
and the type of gas fitting required.
Cylinders must be a minimum of 10' from boiler in the open air and away from any heat source and upwind of the boiler. They should be positioned so that any spill of bitumen will run AWAY from the cylinder. Make sure that the cylinder is large enough for your requirements.
Gas cylinders must be secured upright . This isn't some old wives tale to make life difficult. The reason for securing upright is to prevent the cylinder falling over ( logical !! ) and this is why ......
....An LPG cylinder is filled with LIQUID PETROLEUM GAS - that is why you get so much gas in a small space - it has been liquefied. The gas in the cylinder is liquid and it is kept like this as it can't expand. In use, it literally boils off as the gas is consumed and the upper part of the cylinder is filled with high pressure gas, while the lower part remains liquid. If you shake a cylinder when it is turned off you can feel the liquid sloshing about inside . A regulator reduces the pressure of the gas to a constant level and passes it down the gas pipe to the burner.
.... IF THE CYLINDER FALLS OVER, instead of gas in the top of the cylinder , there will be liquid and this will flow through the cylinder valve, into the regulator and down the pipes to the burner. It may even come out of the end as a jet of liquid.....
.... as soon as the gas reaches the open air, the pressure is reduced and it boils off violently. It then expands up to 50 times in volume. What was a steady flow of gas at controlled pressure will become an uncontrollable and expanding sea of flames that you can't shut off until it has burned away - which could take several minutes. This can be highly dangerous and worse still, as the gas expands violently you don't know where it is going to go. SO YOU MUST SECURE YOUR CYLINDERS!
For the same reason, always turn cylinders OFF before moving them. As the gas is heavier than air, cylinders of propane must never be stored or used indoors or below ground, or adjacent to a drain.
You also need a safety space of at least 3 metres between any cylinders and the boiler to protect them from heat and fire.
If your gas cylinder begins to 'frost' a second cylinder should be coupled to the regulator using the correct 'pigtail' fittings. This happens as the take off is too much for the size of cylinder and the ambient temperature. It happens especially in colder weather on bigger boilers and eventually the gas pressure will drop. DO NOT warm the cylinder to improve the pressure. Turn the burner off and couple up a second cylinder with the correct fittings. Your gas dealer or Farvis can advise.
Hose rupture valves are available if required and these will shut off the supply. We also manufacture a 'GAS STOP' (r) which can be used manually to turn off the gas supply in an emergency without having to approach the cylinder.
It is extremely dangerous to operate gas equipment in a position where you can't reach the gas cylinder or with an excessive length of hose. DO NOT OPERATE WITH THE APPLIANCE ON A ROOF AND THE CYLINDER AT GROUND LEVEL If something were to go wrong you would not be able to turn off the gas, and a long hose is a trip hazard with dire consequences if it is damaged or receives an unexpected impact or jerk.
POSITIONING THE BOILER
Regard should be given to spillage,
fire fighting and evacuation
when deciding where to put the boiler and safety equipment.
ALL LPG equipment consumes oxygen and emits carbon dioxide and has a naked flame. Considerable heat is radiated from a boiler, outward, AND downward and IT IS THUS ESSENTIAL THAT THE EQUIPMENT IS USED OUTDOORS AND IN A WELL VENTILATED AREA, WELL AWAY FROM FLAMMABLE SURFACES AND MATERIALS. It must have all four feet in contact with the ground and be secure and stable. Rocking or moving the boiler when in operation could cause a fire and this risk increases as the temperature rises.
Positioning a boiler is a largely a matter of common sense but there
will be H&S and ITA requirements and every circumstance is different. You
must also consider the safety of users, others on site and protection of the area around
the boiler and associated equipment. There should be a 5 metre working
area on all sides of the boiler and this must be kept clear of obstruction,
passers by and flammable material. Heat will be radiated downward from
the boiler and precautions must be taken to prevent damage to the surface. Do
not arrange the job so that people carrying hot
material have to pass close to each other.
Often a few simple changes can greatly improve the safety of a job at no cost or inconvenience to the operators. If there are several people using the equipment, plan your walkways so that you don't get in each other's way and do not carry hot material anywhere it could spill and cause a danger. FARVIS supply lidded pouring cans for safer carrying of bitumen and any boiler can be fitted with a tap for safer pouring. Do not carry bitumen far if there is an alternative. If you do have to carry it any distance, do not let anyone else get too close. If possible avoid ladders and walkways and ask what would happen if bitumen in a bucket were to spill - what would happen to you - and to other people - in the middle ages, people defending a castle would pour boiling tar onto attacking soldiers, which shows how nasty the stuff is! Be very careful, plan your work in advance and when working with sealant, be steady, slow and deliberate.
ENSURE THAT CHILDREN CAN'T GET TO THE EQUIPMENT EITHER WHEN IT IS WORKING OR AFTER YOU HAVE GONE FOR LUNCH OR AT THE END OF THE DAY! MATERIAL MAY REMAIN HOT FOR MANY HOURS AFTER THE BURNER IS TURNED OFF AND THIS IS ANOTHER GOOD REASON TO DRAIN DOWN AT THE END OF USE.
Fire extinguishers, a bucket of sand, first aid and
safety equipment should be in easy reach and accessible in
the event of trouble. The unit must be positioned so that
there will be no danger whatever to
surrounding structures, equipment or buildings if the unit were to overheat, spill
or catch fire. In the event of a spill, the bitumen must not be able to flow away from the
boiler and do damage or run over an edge. Take special care to ensure that it can
not run over the edge of a roof or into a drain or access
It should be well away from houses or open windows. Some people like the smell of hot bitumen, but others don't and in concentrations it can be a health risk. Please note that there are now regulations on how much gas you can carry in a vehicle and special precautions which need to be taken. Ask your gas supplier for details and a leaflet.
Boilers must not be mounted on scaffolding or above a walk way. There must be no combustible material nearby and appliances must not stand on any flammable flooring or in a area which could be damaged by spilt bitumen or heat from the underside of the boiler or tray.
Do not light up or use the boiler in a vehicle or on the back of a wagon or anywhere in a confined space or where there could be danger from a build up of heat, fumes, exhaust gasses, gas or reflected heat from the underside of the casing. Heat will be radiated by the boiler and there is a naked flame from the burner. Be extremely cautious if you use power driven equipment as there may be fuel and oil about and fuel cans or fuel tanks fitted to plant, could be overlooked. Also watch out for paint and flammable sealer. Sudden movement of a working or hot boiler, even if the burner is not alight could cause an explosion and fire.
THE BEST SAFETY IS COMMON SENSE -
DON'T LEAVE YOURS IN THE VAN
BEFORE YOU START WORK
Know how to turn off before you turn
In the event of trouble, turn the gas off at the cylinder - it's quicker.
After using the appliance it is of the UTMOST IMPORTANCE that the cylinder valve is closed first thus allowing the gas in the system to burn off. Any valve fitted to the appliance should then be closed to ensure that when the next time it is used, turning on of the cylinder valve does not allow gas to escape before being ignited.
TURN OFF WHEN NOT IN USE OR WHEN UNATTENDED
EVEN FOR A SHORT TIME.
REMOVE BURNER TO LIGHT
A bitumen boiler will consist of an outer casing, insulated and fitted with an inner steel liner to retain the insulation. There will be a pan and a lid. The burner will fit in a bracket under the boiler pan. The burner is removed to light in case gas fumes build up as the gas is turned on and this flashes back through the door on lighting. This is the same for a thermostat or standard burner. Trying to light the burner in situ risks a serious accident.
The mushroom type burner is held in the bracket by two lugs. It may be
necessary to tilt the burner slightly to get the head
through the door. Then place the burner in the bracket and pull it back
slightly to lock. If these lugs become bent they can be gently adjusted to
shape. Lighting procedure is detailed later.
Taps are very strong, but are not indestructible!
TAKE CARE - HOT BITUMEN CAN BURN YOU!
TYPE 168 PLUG VALVE ( now obsolete )
Tighten firmly in an upright position and use thread paste or sealer if necessary. Position the valve so that the outlet spout is at the bottom. Use spanner or pipe wrench WITH CARE to tighten. Do not damage the tap or use excessive force as this may cause damage which only becomes apparent later on. Handle is secured in position with a lock bolt and can be removed with a 10mm ring spanner. DO NOT DO THIS WHEN HOT! If tap weeps slightly, turn handle through 180 degrees on next use so that it closes on the other side.
TYPE 169 & 169/2 GATE VALVE
Asphalt, filled sealants and agricultural products.
TYPE 170 & 170/A FARVIS SAFETY TAP ( design copyright )
Bitumens and sealants.
We supply either of the above taps depending on the use or customer request. Type 170 is supplied as standard. Type 169 or 170/A is available to special order at no extra cost.
Mobile boilers and boilers fitted with long legs
are designed to take the type 170 40mm vertical discharge tap or a 1.5",
2" or 3" heavy duty '169' outlet gate tap. The tap is
fitted to the boiler with a screw thread and needs to be
tightened into position before use.
INSTALL TAP BY SCREWING INTO POSITION SO TAP IS UPRIGHT AS ILLUSTRATED ABOVE. ENSURE THE TAP IS UPRIGHT AND VERY FIRMLY FIXED. THREADS WILL SELF SEAL AND GET TIGHTER AS YOU SCREW IN.
BEFORE USING THE TAP WITH SEALANT WE RECOMMEND THAT YOU FILL
THE BOILER WITH COLD WATER AND SEE HOW THE TAP OPERATES, HOW LIQUID WILL FLOW FROM
THE OUTLET AND WHERE YOU NEED TO PUT THE CONTAINER. PAY
PARTICULAR ATTENTION TO ANY SPLASHES AND OVERSPILL.
( DON'T FORGET TO FULLY DRAIN THE BOILER AND TAP OF ANY REMAINING WATER BEFORE
STARTING WORK!! )
EVEN WHEN USING A TAP YOU M U S T WEAR PROTECTIVE CLOTHING
USE A TOOL OR GAUNTLET TO OPERATE THE HANDLE AS IT WILL BE VERY HOT IN USE. DO NOT OPEN TAP FURTHER THAN NECESSARY TO POUR SAFELY. OUTLET PRESSURE WILL VARY DEPENDING ON AMOUNT IN THE BOILER AND ALSO ON THE TEMPERATURE. THERE MAY BE A CONSIDERABLE HEAD OF PRESSURE AND HOT BITUMEN MAY COME OUT IN A RUSH. PROCEED WITH CAUTION AND TAKE SUITABLE PRECAUTIONS AGAINST SPLASHES. ENSURE THAT YOU HAVE A CONTAINER TO COLLECT THE BITUMEN. THIS MUST BE IN THE CORRECT POSITION TO RECEIVE THE FLOW AND THE RIM OR LID MUST BE POSITIONED SO THAT IT WILL NOT DEFLECT THE MATERIAL ONTO THE GROUND - OR YOU! DO NOT PLACE THE EDGE OF THE CONTAINER UNDER THE LIP.
DO NOT FORCE TAP. THE GATE VALVE HAS A SELF TIGHTENING ACTION & IT MAY BE NECESSARY TO GIVE THE HANDLE A SMALL KNOCK TO OPEN IT BUT DO NOT FORCE WHEN COLD. TO INCREASE FACE PLATE FRICTION OR TO STOP EXCESSIVE WEEPING, SLACKEN LOCK-NUT AND THEN TIGHTEN THE PIVOT BOLT. BE SURE TO RE TIGHTEN THE LOCK-NUT AFTERWARDS! A SMALL AMOUNT OF WEEPING IS TO BE EXPECTED FROM THIS TYPE OF TAP AND IS NOT A FAULT.
DO NOT POKE ANYTHING INTO THE OUTLET TO ENCOURAGE THE FLOW - IT MAY COME OUT IN A RUSH AND BURN YOU. THE TAP WILL BE HOT ENOUGH TO USE WHEN THE MATERIAL IN THE POT IS READY! USE PROTECTIVE CLOTHING AND READ THE SAFETY INFORMATION WITH THE BOILER.
TO REMOVE TAP: DRAIN THE BOILER FIRST. EMPTY BOILER COMPLETELY AND UNSCREW TAP WHEN IT IS STILL SLIGHTLY WARM. TO INCREASE LEVERAGE, YOU CAN OPEN TAP AGAINST BACK OR LIMIT STOP AND USE TAP HANDLE AS LEVER. DO NOT USE EXCESSIVE FORCE OR YOU MIGHT DAMAGE THE BACK STOP. THE BOILER MUST BE EMPTY BEFORE REMOVAL OF TAP - REMEMBER THAT BITUMEN FORMS A SKIN AND THAT AN APPARENTLY 'SOLID' BOILER MAY HAVE HOT MATERIAL IN THE MIDDLE THAT COULD COME OUT IN A RUSH WHEN THE TAP IS REMOVED.
You MUST drain the boiler before removal in case there is hot liquid sealant under the skin of the bitumen!
MORE INFORMATION ON THE USE OF TAPS FOLLOWS FURTHER DOWN THIS SECTION.
We strongly recommend a spill tray for every boiler. Various sizes are available and you will need a volume at least 30 % greater than your boiler. In use the boiler is placed inside so that if there is a material spill or a fire, the tray acts as a secondary container.- as well as keeping the site tidy. It is essential above ground level and anywhere where a spill could cause damage. It is a requirement that a boiler or other heating appliance on a roof or other structure MUST have a full capacity spill tray with a heat proof barrier underneath. This can be a bed of sand or similar non combustible material. Placing a lot of spare bitumen in the tray will reduce the capacity and obviously don't put a gas cylinder in it! A drip tray is a site tidy for ground level work and is not a substitute for the correct item.
When siting the tray keep it well away from flammable material and
structures. It is an aid to safety, but that doesn't absolve you from being careful!
Watch that you don't catch the bottom of the bucket on the tray as you lift it!!
Safety on site is a matter for training, common sense and good working practice. It is up to you to look after your equipment, and use it safely. If you don't, then no one else will!
We can not even begin to cover all there is to know about using this equipment in a small leaflet and you should be aware of all the correct operating procedures before you start work. If you are not familiar, ask your supervisor, trade association or the local HSE for advice. We hope the following advice is helpful but it is not exhaustive ,and is not intended to be.
Members of the public and people not directly concerned with the operation must be kept well away from the appliance, associated equipment, hot sealant, walk ways and area of use. Of special importance is the safe operation near children, particularly as they may see the equipment and operatives as a source of entertainment! If the boiler is left on site at the end of the day, it should be secured and either drained or allowed to cool before being left. Gas cylinders must be stored so that they can not reached by unauthorised persons.
Before use, check over the entire boiler and your other equipment. This includes the obvious things like gas joints, hoses and the regulator, but also boiler outlet valves, the integrity of the pan, the serviceability of your fire extinguisher, your buckets and cans, your own protective equipment and clothing and all the other bits and pieces you have on site. It is better to find out before you start than when you are half way up a ladder! If in doubt, fix it!
After connecting appliances/regulators etc. check that there is no leak of
gas. Check the regulator, hose & connections at both ends on first use and
regularly thereafter. Also look for cuts, damage and bulges
and replace if there is any doubt about anything. Flame guns
and other equipment which have gas joints other than the hose
connection should be fully checked before first use and subsequently on
a regular basis to detect damage or wear. Hoses must
be changed every 12 months as a safety precaution.
Propane has a distinctive smell and a leak can sometimes be detected immediately but the best method is to mix a 50% washing up liquid and water solution and brush it over the joints. With the line pressurised you will start to see small bubbles appear from any leaks and these will build up like a fungus.
It sounds obvious, but don't let much gas escape while you are checking for leaks as this can be very dangerous. You have to use common sense and remember that as well as burning at the point of release, gas can build up silently in a dip or drain and explode later! It is not safe to use equipment with a leak as it could catch fire and either burn through the pipe to create a major incident or overheat the cylinder.
If there is a gas leak, turn the cylinder off at once. Extinguish all naked lights and if there is any chance than gas has built up in a closed area take action to ventilate it. Never look for a leak with a naked flame. but trace it by smell and confirm with squeeze liquid and water. If necessary call the emergency services.
It is important to look after the equipment. That unfortunately means NOT chucking the regulator and burner on the floor or covering the hose in bitumen. In particular the 'POL' fitting on the regulator which screws into the gas cylinder is a precision gas tight joint and the regulator is a precision control unit. If it is covered in grit or dirt gets inside, it will leak or fail to control the gas pressure, or both, and that will cost money. It could also cause a serious accident. Likewise, rough treatment of a thermostat unit which allows foreign matter to get into the regulator will do serious damage to the control system which will cause failure of the entire unit and an expensive repair that is not covered by warranty.
The regulator gives operating control of the burner and
heat output UP for lower pressure and lower heat output and
DOWN to increase. In an emergency, turn off at the
cylinder valve .Unless the burner is bolted in and fitted with a
pilot light, YOU MUST TAKE THE BURNER OUT TO LIGHT.
Have you checked that everything is safe. Do you have all your safety and protective equipment? Do you know the temperature of your material. Is there someone assigned to monitor the boiler and act as 'pot man'. Check the boiler again and also remove any build up of tar from the exhaust vent under the pan ring.
Do not turn cylinder tap on. Remove burner from boiler and position upright or at a slight angle on the ground away from flammable substances. Check all unions, joints and pipes for leaks and damage. Close control tap on burner if fitted. When you or another suitably experience person are satisfied that all is in order, close the regulator control by screwing the 'T' bar or adjuster upwards. (Some types can come out of the regulator body but can be put back again as long as they remain clean and the regulator is leak tested afterwards). Open the cylinder valve. There should be no gas escaping from the burner unit. Now screw in the regulator valve until some resistance is felt and then another one turn. Gas will now be flowing to the burner. If there is a loud hiss or a rushing sound, turn off the gas and lower the regulator pressure, let the gas disburse and try again. Apply a lighted taper or ignitor to the burner head at arms length and the burner should light cleanly at low pressure. If the burner does not light at once, turn off the gas and allow a while for the gas to disperse before trying again. Never light the burner under the boiler as there will be a gas build up and a flash back through the door.
ALWAYS IGNITE BURNER OUTSIDE CASING AT MINIMUM GAS PRESSURE
UNITS FITTED WITH OPTIONAL FLAME FAILURE CONTROL, FIXED BURNER AND PILOT LIGHT.
We manufacture various types but all are
generally similar in operation. Follow the previous instructions to permit gas to
reach the burner unit, but first close the burner control tap.
Press in the BLUE flame fail button. Do not place your hand overthe air intake to the gas jet or near the head of the burner.There should be a slight hissing noise as gas reaches the pilot.If there is a loud hissing or rushing noise, release button at once and close the control tap. Ventilate the area and start again. When the gas pressure is correct apply a lighted taper or long reach ignitor to the pilot head, remaining at arms length. Hold the blue button in for a few seconds to heat the thermocouple head and then release the button gently - the pilot burner will stay alight. Place the unit in the casing and when ready, gradually open the main burner control. The main burner will light. If the flame is extinguished, the gas will switch off within approximately 15 -30 seconds, but his will still permit a build up of gas. Ventilate the area thoroughly before attempting to re-light and investigate the cause.
If the pilot will not stay alight, check the thermocouple head is
just in the pilot flame - it should glow a dull red when
heated - and that the connection to the valve is firm but do not overtighten. The pilot will need to prime for a few seconds before it lights on first use of the day and may shut off if it gets wet. This is a very delicate part of the equipment and MUST be treated with care.
The common cause of failure is on a Monday morning when the unit has been left out over the weekend and has got wet. It may be necessary to gently dry the back of the flame failure valve where the thermocouple screws in with an air line to remove any moisture. DO NOT use a water repellant spray as that is flammable !
Thermostat boilers have their own instruction leaflets and
must be read before any attempt is made to use the equipment.
THINK BITUMEN & 250 oC and HUMAN SKIN DON'T MIX ?
- well they do -
but you won't get the bitumen off again until it has cooled and been removed by a surgeon - along with the skin and flesh underneath
DON'T TAKE SHORTCUTS
DO NOT LEAVE A BURNER OR BOILER ALIGHT AND UNATTENDED AT ANY TIME.
All FARVIS bitumen boilers have an insulated and doubled skinned casing. This makes them much more efficient than old fashioned and uninsulated types. The boiler may heat faster than you expect and may need a lower gas pressure to simmer. This will give more economy in operation and lower fuel bills, but it may mean that the boiler gets hotter more quickly than you expect. With experience you will know how long your FARVIS Boiler will take to heat, but take regular temperature readings at all times and do not leave it alight if you have to leave it. What would happen if you were to be distracted and forget? Overheating is a result of lack of care by the operator. Likewise thermostats are an excellent safety feature but do NOT absolve the user of responsibility for temperature control.
Clear the exhaust vents round the case rim before every use. Do this when the boiler is cold. This is particularly important with a thermostat as the burner output when simmering may not be sufficient to melt any obstructing material and this may cause problems with the burner.
The lid has two main functions, the first being to seal the pan when not in use, and to act as a 'snuffer' if the boiler overheats and flashes up. It is important to ensure that gas coming from the material in the pan can escape and this is best done by leaving the lid partly or completely off the boiler when the burner is alight. Trapped gas can catch fire - if the lid is fully on during heating the gas may flash up or even explode if severely overheated. Ensure the lid is free and not stuck on with bitumen before you light up. Replace the lid if it is damaged or bent. If a lid lock is fitted to the boiler it must NOT be locked on while the boilers is being heated or simmered. The purpose of the lock is to prevent the lid flying off in transit. If using a splash reducing lid, turn the burner off before filling the hopper, allow the boiler a few minutes to cool, then close the main lid, open the slider to release the material and then open the main lid again to permit the boiler to vent. Only operate the main burner with both slider and lid open. The lid may seal to the boiler as the unit cools down but MUST be removed as the unit begins to heat up. Do not apply too much force or you may damage the lid. Do not let bitumen harden in the pan after use or put in whole blocks as this will cause slow melting, possible overheating of liquid material and will also make the boiler heavier to lift. Empty the boiler after each use to save time and gas when re-heating. De coke the boiler at regular intervals. This increases efficiency and lengthens the life of the boiler.
When filling the boiler, break the sealant blocks into
small pieces to increase the surface are. This
will give faster melting. Do not overfill the boiler. How much you
put in will depend on the job in hand but as a general rule the boiler should always
be between one third and two thirds capacity. Never fill the pan to the brim
as it could 'boil over' and give rise to a serious fire
risk. Operation with only a few inches of material in the pan will cause rapid
changes in temperature and possible overheating. Full gas
pressure should only be used when the boiler is reasonably well
loaded. Do not throw material into a pan as this could splash and never
lean over or into a bitumen
container when hot. Do not try and heat sealant if there is water present, it may spit as it warms up. Adding water to a hot pan will cause foaming, a spill over and a possible explosion.
When first heating, you must remember that the sides of the pan will be a lot hotter than the material in the centre and during this time the thermometer or thermostat (if fitted) will not give a true reading. It is there for important to allow the boiler to heat gently and not to turn the burner to full power and walk off! This also applies to a thermostat that must be heated in stages until ALL the material is fully melted.
During this initial heating stage there will be material in the bottom of the pan which has not fully melted and there will be nothing to take the burner heat. By turning the burner to full before the material has fully melted, you risk an overheat and the gasses from the bitumen could catch fire before the bulk of the material even melts. In extreme circumstances this may flash up and cause a minor explosion in the pan which could blow the lid off and then catch fire. It is thus essential that the lid is NOT secured ( or in the case of a hopper lid system that the slider and and lid are not closed ) so that gasses and any pressure is not contained in the boiler pan.
During this stage neither a thermometer nor a thermostat will
indicate a true reading and it is necessary to control the
boiler manually. Let the temperature come up gradually. Using full heat on a boiler with solid material in the pan can also seriously shorten the life of the boiler.
If BROWN smoke appears from the boiler, turn the burner OFF at once as it has overheated.
Using extreme caution, replace the lid using
a tool and at arms length.
Remove the gas cylinder where possible and keep everyone well
away from the boiler. Leave it for at least 20 minutes before
raising the lid and exercise extreme caution at all times in case
the vapour in the pan flashes up as oxygen enters the pan.
DO NOT COOL WITH WATER.
If the boiler is suspected of overheating, has been 'snuffed' or
is producing grey or brown smoke, DO NOT remove the lid as this
can permit air to enter the pan and to cause the boiler to flash
up. In this case the lid MUST be left on until the material has
cooled. Even after the smoke has stopped, the boiler pan could
be too hot. The burner must be turned off at once and not
simmered. DO NOT move the boiler as any
additional material splashing onto the sides of the pan could
vaporise and explode. For this reason, do not move a boiler when
it is at a high temperature or has been heating or melting down
in the last 20 minutes.
DO NOT MOVE A STATIC BOILER UNTIL IT IS COOL AND DRAINED. NEVER APPROACH OR DRAW BITUMEN FROM A BOILER PRODUCING BROWN SMOKE - THIS COULD CAUSE A FIRE. NEVER APPROACH AN OVERHEATED BOILER. LET IT COOL DOWN.
IF IN DOUBT - GAS OFF - STAY BACK.
If a fire develops that can not be immediately and completely extinguished, call the fire brigade at once. However the majority of fires are not dangerous if controlled immediately and can be easily and quickly snuffed out with the lid. BUT - a fire is a sign of bad boiler management and you must use common sense as any flash up is potentially highly dangerous.
CLEANING EXHAUST VENTS.
All standard model Farvis boilers have a radial exhaust around the underside of the pan rim. This needs to be clear so that the burner can operate correctly. Normally the heat of the burner will maintain the gap, but if the unit is simmered for long periods or used at a low temperature , of in some cases if using a thermostat, the gap may block. In this case, when the boiler is cold, mechanically remove any bitumen or clinker until the exhaust is fully clear. Use ppe and goggles as the bitumen may shatter and fly off when you do this !
USE OF TAP
BE AWARE THAT BITUMEN MAY SPLASH.
DO NOT POUR FROM AN OVERHEATED BOILER.
CHECK TAP CONDITION BEFORE USE - OUR EQUIPMENT IS VERY STRONG, BUT NOTHING IS INDESTRUCTIBLE!!
BE AWARE - FLOW RATES VARY WITH BOILER CONTENT AND TEMPERATURE OF THE MATERIAL.
The tap is for pouring material into buckets. It heats up with the boiler but when cold it will be solid. It is most important that it is NOT FORCED when cold and that you do NOT insert a tool or stick up the outlet to hurry the flow. This is very dangerous and there may be a rush of hot material. All good things take time and the tap will warm up in time to use the heated material! Using excessive force on the tap will damage it and in extreme circumstances could cause failure!
To operate, use a short tool or a well protected hand with suitable wrist and arm protection to open and close the tap. A quarter turn takes the flow of the plug cock from off to full. Gate taps will only need to be opened part way to obtain a god flow! The tap design may differ and the operation is common sense.
Plug cocks have an 'off/on/off' operation
and a removable handle for safety and to minimise any damage in transit, however it
must not be subject to excessive stress or impacts and must be checked when
the boiler is set up. Handles can be locked in
position using the supplied bolt and when delivered they are installed ready for use.
HANDLE MUST POINT IN THE DIRECTION OF THE VALVE OPENING I.E. OUTWARD FOR
ON AND SIDEWAYS FOR OFF.
Gate taps should have the security of the retaining bolt and lock nut checked prior to use and regular checks carried out. As the pressure and head of bitumen in the pot alters, the bitumen will flow further from the outlet and may come out with force when full. Be aware of this and ensure you know how the flow will exit the boiler!
Type 170 'FARVIS' safety tap must be given a through visual check before use.
Ensure that the handle and seals are in good
condition. A very small amount of leakage is expected and
the boiler should be placed in a tray. Spare taps are available so do
not wait for a breakdown or failure. If you drain down, turn
the tap OFF to prevent a spill when you next use the boiler.
USE PROTECTIVE CLOTHING TO OPERATE VALVE
To remove the tap for repair or service, drain the boiler and unscrew the tap when any remaining material around the threads is soft. Take great care to ensure that it is not too hot for safety. Obviously the boiler must be completely empty first and overheating is easy in this condition, so use care! Turn plug taps OFF before removal. Gate & safety taps need to be open for removal as you use the handle as a lever to unscrew, so take care the boiler is completely empty!
When pouring from the tap, be very cautious as material could splash and might be blown away from the bucket by a high wind. ( WIND INFO)
A NUMBER OF FACTORS AFFECT THE WAY MATERIAL COMES OUT OF THE TAP:
PRESSURE - HOW MUCH IS IN THE BOILER.
TEMPERATURE - AS BITUMEN HEATS UP IT FLOWS MORE EASILY.
VALVE POSITION - THE FURTHER YOU OPEN THE TAP THE FASTER BITUMEN COMES OUT.
ENVIRONMENTAL FACTORS - WIND SPEED, POSITION OF BUCKET, AMBIENT TEMPERATURE.
and the faster the material comes out, the further it will go and the more it splashes. Plan for this when you position the bucket and make sure that you are well clear !
A full boiler will have a higher flow rate and material will pour further away from the tap.
DO NOT hold the bucket and operate the tap at the same time! Put the bucket down and keep your hands away! Use a safety bucket for moving sealant. A ladle is for transferring liquid between containers, not for carrying bitumen.
HAND PADDLE MIXING
If your boiler has been specified with this option there will be a crank handle
protruding from the top of the boiler. The lid assembly will be
bolted to the boiler. The paddles can be turned in either direction and should only
be used with the lid closed. The handle will be hot. Try and turn the
paddles frequently if using a filled material to prevent build up
of sediment. When operating the paddles ensure the boiler is
stable and do not apply excessive force which might make it move about.
Some units have a slide off half lid. Do not turn the paddles with the
lid removed in case of splashes. DO NOT TURN THE PADDLES IF
THE BURNER IS AT FULL POWER OR THE BOILER HAS OVERHEATED. EXCESSIVE
SPLASHING COULD CAUSE A FIRE. For cleaning, drain the
Please refer to separate instructions, DO NOT OPEN THE LID OR ADD MATERIAL WHEN THE ENGINE IS RUNNING. DO NOT START ENGINE UNTIL THE MATERIAL IN THE PAN HAS MELTED OR IS IN SMALL PIECES THAT WON'T JAM THE SWEEPS. DO NOT PLACE LARGE LUMPS IN THE PAN IF YOU NEED TO MIX AND MELT DOWN.
MEASURING THE TEMPERATURE
We can supply a purpose made asphalt and bitumen thermometer. 0 - 400
oC. Built from stainless steel it has a robust construction and an easy to
read dial. The FARVIS probe thermometer has a sensor in the
tip. Take the reading and when the temperature has stabilised on the dial, then
remove the thermometer.
Do not to come into contact with exhaust gases, bitumen or other parts of the equipment - they will be very hot!
HOT BITUMEN CAN BE at 300 oC
BOILER, BITUMEN AND COMPONENTS WILL BE HOT FOR A LONG TIME AFTER USE
Some types of thermometer have a very sharp
taking the temperature of asphalt. Treat these with extreme
caution as they could injure someone!!!!
The temperature in different parts a boiler pan can vary by over 150oC and you will need to have all the material liquid before the temperature begins to stabilise. Using a mushroom burner, the hottest part of the boiler pan will be round the outer edge and the coolest towards the centre. With a mesh burner the hottest part will be in the centre. Place the thermometer tip in a suitable position to record the highest temperature and do not push it into solid lumps as this will give a false reading. Do not splash material up the pan sides when taking the temperature. If the boiler appears to be very hot, turn off the gas and allow it to cool before trying to take the temperature. Suddenly removing the lid of a hot boiler or agitating the surface of the material could cause a fire if the boiler has seriously overheated. If you suspect that the boiler is overheating, do NOT lean over the pan to take a reading with a thermometer - common sense, but easily done!
Know the temperatures of your
material. These will include a
maximum , a pouring temperature and a working range. Do not
overheat the material. A maximum temperature for most materials
is 250 oC. and a temperature of 275 degrees centigrade is the
most you would require for bitumen at the boiler but for many
jobs this would be far too high. Temperatures above this are
extremely hazardous. Some types, particularly rubber filled and
polymer bitumen should be heated in an oil jacketed boiler as
overheating will damage the chemical make up of the sealant
leading to early failure. The correct figure should be supplied
by the sealant manufacturer. Remember however that the
temperature in the pan can vary greatly and what is low in one
point may be much higher somewhere else, even in a small pan, so
always test at several points.
DO NOT TOW A TROLLEY BOILER ON A PUBLIC ROAD.
CHECK BALANCE BEFORE UNCOUPLING A TRAILER BOILER FROM THE VEHICLE
DO NOT TOW A TRAILER BOILER WHEN SEALANT IS HOT OR BURNER IS ALIGHT.
FOR USE AS STATIC PLANT THE GAS CYLINDER MUST BE REMOVED FROM THE UNIT.
There is a 10 mph maximum speed on all equipment not designed for highway use.
Cylinders on mobile equipment should be removed before the burner is lit and the
cylinder mountings used only for transport. In some cases where
the equipment is continually mobile this will clearly not
be possible but in these
circumstances the temperature of the gas cylinder must be
monitored at all times and the boiler must not be left unattended at any time
unless the gas supply is turned off at the cylinder. In all cases where the unit is
used as 'static plant', the cylinder must be removed and placed the regulation
distance from the equipment. Units should not be subjected to rough
handling when alight. Exercise care and common sense.
When using a mobile boiler it is essential that the wheels
are chocked or brakes applied; trailers must have prop
stands lowered and clamped and hand brake applied. Avoid
operating on side slopes if the equipment has swivel
wheels. Keep wheel bearings and coupling assembly clean and well greased on all
It is illegal and dangerous to tow a trolley boiler on a public road.
Exercise extreme care if moving a trolley with hot material and extinguish the
burner before moving it. Do not turn too sharply with
a trolley boiler to prevent any risk of the tow handle
catching on the tow vehicle and avoid sudden or violent manoeuvres and
rough surfaces. Do not back the boiler into any solid
objects. If this should occur check that you have not
damaged the bitumen valve. Road trailer equipment MUST be cool and the
burner extinguished before being coupled up or moved. Balance
should be adjusted before detaching from the tow vehicle. Legislation applies to trailers
and that you must ensure that all lights and brakes and tyres are in
GOOD condition The chassis should also be checked from time to time and all
bolts and wheel nuts tightened. as necessary. You should inform
your insurance company that your vehicle tows a trailer.
Lifting points are provided on the chassis of trolley boilers.
DO NOT try to lift or transport the unit when the boiler is hot or alight.
Some units have a central lift point, otherwise use the two front lifting points and the rear chassis corners. Remove the gas cylinder before lifting. Do not attach lifting slings to the boiler or boiler handles under any circumstances.
Lifting points for trailer boilers and mixer units are for use in the factory and for delivery and should not be used to lift a fully loaded boiler.
Power mix units must not be in operation when being driven on a public road.
These must be used with armoured gas hose and a 0 - 2 bar adjustable gas regulator. Read the general advice and instructions relating to burners and gas! THE TOOL GRID IS A SAFETY FEATURE AND MUST BE IN POSITION BEFORE LIGHTING THE UNIT.
Assembly: If not already installed, the burner should be placed into the bottom of the casing on the mobile unit. It is placed in the bracket on the static model.
To light, remove the gas cylinder from the holder. Follow the pre lighting
procedures for boilers. Light the burner by placing a lighted
taper on the burner head and withdrawing your
arm completely from the bin. Then turn on the gas supply gradually until
the burner lights.
Ensure that the gas cylinder is removed at all times when the burner is alight. It must be a minimum of 10 feet from the appliance. The unit will become very hot in service and should not be moved until it has cooled down. The lifting handles will be very hot. There is a slot in the bottom of the casing which is designed to assist cleaning out. It also permits cooling air to enter the tool bin and must not be blocked or obstructed by tools. For this reason the grid must ALWAYS be in position when the unit is in use. When not heating tools, turn the gas pressure down or off. Do not permit the burner to blow out on windy days.
CAUTION: in sunny weather it may not
be possible to see if the burner
is alight in the heater. Approach with caution. Very hot air will be generated by the unit and will vent from the open top of the bin. Tools heated in the bin will become very
hot. Wooden handles may burn or be damaged!
This burner is producing 60 KW of heat - but the flame and hot air plume is almost invisible in bright sunlight!
We supply arrange of accessories. These included pouring cans, safety pouring cans with lids and, buckets, heatable buckets, standard and safety ladles, joint shoes and a variety of other items.
Please note that all metal handles can become hot in operation, particularly after extended heating in a tool heater. Consideration should always be given to using a safety pouring can with a locking lid ( our safety pouring can has a lid that can be locked closed). A 'place on' lid is not the same as a locking safety lid.
Galvanised pouring cans and buckets are NOT suitable for direct
heating over a flame and while they may be warmed gently
to remove deposits of hardened sealant, they must NEVER be placed
directly onto a flame as they will burn through very quickly and
sealant could run from the bottom! This could be very dangerous. The only type of bucket suitable for direct heating is a 'V lip compound bucket' with a heavy diffuser plate in the base.
The condition of every accessory should be checked when you do your
daily equipment checks. Any equipment that is not in first class condition
must not be used. In particular check handles, spouts, bottoms
and side seams and the general condition and security of the unit.
ALL FARVIS EQUIPMENT IS SET UP BEFORE IT LEAVES THE FACTORY, SO THIS INFORMATION SHOULD BE UNNECESSARY! HOWEVER WE INCLUDE IT AS THERE MIGHT BE A TIME DURING THE LIFE OF OUR EQUIPMENT WHEN IT MAY BE USEFUL!
GAS EQUIPMENT IS SAFE IF MAINTAINED CORRECTLY. DO NOT FIDDLE UNLESS YOU ARE SUITABLY QUALIFIED AND EXPERIENCED
IF THERE IS ANY DOUBT ABOUT SAFETY, REFER TO YOUR LOCAL LPG SUPPLIER OR GAS ENGINEER - OR TO US!
BASIC FAULTS AND CURES
Most 'faults' turn out be an empty cylinder or a blocked jet!
All burners are set up, adjusted and burn tested in the factory before dispatch. They should burn with a steady blue light without smell or the formation of soot. Yellow or lazy blue flames around exhaust vents are a sign of trouble and the equipment must NOT be used until adjusted or repaired by a suitably qualified person.
YOUR LPG SUPPLIER SHOULD BE ABLE TO ASSIST.
Each bitumen boiler is supplied with a matched burner. This will have a jet suitable for the size of boiler. Using a bigger burner is dangerous as the unit can be swamped with gas which will not be fully burned and may create dangerous carbon monoxide. It is therefore essential that the correct burner is used at all times and the data sticker on the boiler will have the jet size marked. You should note this in case spares are ever required. If in any doubt contact your dealer or the manufacturer for advice. If you are not familiar with gas equipment do NOT fiddle. Adjusting the burner should be done well away from flammable materials. The flames are powerful and you must exercise care. Before adjusting the burner check that there is gas in the cylinder, that the regulator is correctly adjusted and that the exhaust vents around the rim of the boiler are not blocked Also ensure that the gas hose has not been crushed or the couplings damaged.
BURNERS WITH NO ADJUSTABLE AIR WHEEL:
Since 2008 all standard FARVIS 'impact' burners have been fitted with an integrated gas jet and are pre set to give the correct flame pattern without adjustment. The air flow is pre set in the factory and will not need to be altered during the life of the equipment.
However, a burner may still need cleaning as bitumen can easily stick to the end of the intake tube and reduce the airflow, causing the burner to operate with a smoky yellow flame.
Assuming no physical damage to the unit, all that is needed to maintain full efficiency is to clear any obstructions from the end of the air intake tube and possibly clean the jet.
Turn off the gas and allow to cool. Disconnect the gas pipe. Unscrew and remove the the brass jet holder, clean the jet with an air line or very thin piece of wire ( don't enlarge the hole). Check the jet is clear by holding it up to the light. Fully clear out the burner air intake and remove any debris inside the burner, taking care not to damage the screw threads on the brass injector or the mounting bracket. The position of the mounting bracket is critical, so don't bend it ( however it is made from 6mm steel so is reasonably strong).
IF PACKING WASHERS ARE FITTED BETWEEN THE INJECTOR AND MOUNTING BRACKET THESE MUST BE REPLACED.
Then screw the injector back into the burner and tighten it firmly. Reconnect the gas line and check for a satisfactory flame. Be careful on lighting up as the flame output may be different ! The burner should now burn as in the picture below:
This burner is working correctly. There will be an area of intense heat above it that can't be seen.
BURNERS WITH AN ADJUSTABLE AIR WHEEL OR NUT
PROBLEM. Low output from burner . No power at high pressure and will not stay alight at low pressure. Slow to heat up. Possibly burner will not light at all. Generally boiler is slow to heat up. No hissing sound as gas passes into burner.
CAUSE. gas not reaching burner.
CHECK. the gas line is not damaged or crushed at any point. Gas in cylinder? Cylinder valve ON?
Do you have the correct regulator? You MUST have an adjustable O-30 psi ( 0 - 2 bar ) gas regulator fitted to the gas cylinder Ensure that you can obtain the full adjustment and that the thread of the pressure adjusting screw is not damaged or obstructed. Pressure adjusting screw should screw right down to the stop wheel or stop nut which in turn should be at the top of the thread against the 'T bar' so that the actual screw can be screwed fully into the regulator Remember, SCREW DOWN to Increase pressure and UP to decrease. ( N.B. Some thermostat regulators are pre set but these come with separate instructions).
REMEDY. If none of the above, you have a blocked jet. A confirming symptom is that if you turn the gas off at the main cylinder valve, the burner will take a few seconds to die back. Clean through with compressed air or a bristle.
A firm tap to the main burner body will sometimes clear the blockage
which can then be shaken out of the jet holder through the open end where the gas pipe
PROBLEM. Burner blows out at high pressure, squeaks, pops and is difficult to light. At full power the flame burns away from the burner head. flashes and suddenly goes out. Easy to blow out in any wind or draught. Unsteady, roaring flames creating a lot of noise and not much heat. In extreme cases flame may burn inside burner tube.
CAUSE: Weak mixture
REMEDY. Richen air/gas mixture. Uunscrew brass locknut or lockscrew, screw burner air-wheel INWARDS to reduce amount of air reaching the burner. Adjust until flame is a blue flame (at full pressure) with the seat of the flames under the burner head. Tighten locknut to hold airwheel in place. It may help to use a screwdriver to lock the airwheel while the nut is tightened.
PROBLEM. A yellow burner flame, possible soot, smoke and smell. slow to heat up and bad fuel consumption. Burner will not 'roar' at full power. Flames have a yellow tinge. Generally gutless.
This is a really bad case of an over rich mixture and could be caused by bitumen blocking the open end of the burner tube at the brass injector end.
CAUSE: Rich mixture or blocked primary airways.
REMEDY. Check for bitumen spilled over the end of the burner. Remove any material which is blocking the air intake at the gas pipe end of the burner tube. The tube should be completely clean and there should be a space between the airwheel and the burner tube. It this does not improve matters, weaken air/gas mixture. Unscrew brass locknut. Screw burner airwheel outwards to increase amount of air reaching burner. Adjust until flame is a blue flame (at full pressure) with the seat of the flames under the burner head. Tighten locknut to hold airwheel in place. It may help to use a screwdriver to lock the airwheel while the nut is tightened.
PROBLEM. Blue 'Lazy' secondary flames inside the fire box and possibly around the exhaust vents under the pan rim. Burning back from the burner port. Burner may lack power in the fire box but burns well in the open.
CAUTION. You may have the wrong burner for your boiler or there is a problem with
blocked exhaust or airways and the unit may be producing carbon monoxide gas. This
is very dangerous and you should stop using the boiler at
once and telephone your dealer or the manufacturer for advice. This is
very unlikely but occasionally occurs on old equipment which has had
a different type of burner fitted later. DO NOT CONTINUE TO USE IN A CONFINED
SPACE. Operating at pressures in excess of 30 psi / 2 bar may
produce a similar effect.
For full details of burner maintenance and operation, see the separate handbook which accompanies every mushroom burner. A separate information sheet accompanies mesh gauze burners and torch kits as these require a different adjustment procedure.
BAG PACKED HOSES/REG SETS ARE READY TO FIT TO THE BURNER AND REQUIRE NO FURTHER ASSEMBLY
BOILERS FITTED WITH A 2" BSP TAP SOCKET CAN USE THE SAFETY TAP IF A CONVERTER BUSH IS FITTED - WE CAN SUPPLY THIS.
OIL JACKETED BOILERS
These units have separate information sheets. An oil jacketed
boiler must NOT be used for heating standard bitumens as the oil
temperature required will be in excess of the maximum safe
DO NOT use these units without reading the separate information sheets.
DO NOT EXCEED A JACKET OIL TEMPERATURE OF 250 Oc
AT ANY TIME.
USE ONLY FARVIS GENUINE SPARES AND ACCESSORIES
FARVIS EQUIPMENT IS BUILT TO A HIGH STANDARD USING QUALITY MATERIALS AND WORKMANSHIP. WE DO NOT BUILD 'DOWN TO A PRICE' AS WE BELIEVE THAT SAFETY, QUALITY AND PERFORMANCE ARE VITAL FOR YOUR SAFETY AND PEACE OF MIND. THIS EQUIPMENT SHOULD BE CONSIDERED AS 'PLANT' OR CAPITAL EQUIPMENT. IT IS NOT DESIGNED TO DO A FEW JOBS AND BE SCRAPPED BUT TO CONTINUE OPERATING ECONOMICALLY AND EFFICIENTLY FOR A LONG TIME.
WHEN YOU EVENTUALLY COME TO REPLACE YOUR EQUIPMENT WE HOPE UNIT WE HOPE THAT YOU WILL BUY FROM US AGAIN
THE BEST SAFETY IS COMMON SENSE
USE ONLY FARVIS GENUINE SPARES AND ACCESSORIES.
FARVIS PARTS FIT FARVIS EQUIPMENT
DON'T ORDER NON GENUINE SPARES AND FIND
THEY WON'T FIT WHEN YOU COME TO USE YOUR BOILER!
FARVIS - ENGINEERING IN BRISTOL SINCE 1840
This information is made available without prejudice by FARVIS for the safety and benefit of users of hot sealants and related construction equipment. Please acknowledge the source of the material if you use it for training or information.It may be copied free of charge for individual use ONLY but may not be copied in any form for commercial distribution, incorporation in other publications, for commercial training or as editorial without our written agreement. Features on the Rocks Railway Suspension Bridge and Isle of Wight Crash are copyright to the Authors to whom application must be made. However the Suspension Bridge feature may be used for homework!
No liability is accepted for any errors or omissions & no guarantee is given that the information on this site is correct, complete or current.Obviously we are extremely anxious that all users of our equipment are provided with the best possible information, but this text is made available on our site for UK use ONLY and on the condition that you and anyone else who reads it understand that it is published without any guarantee that it is correct or that it forms a complete 'statement of use'. While we hope that it will be helpful, we take no responsibility for incorrect or misleading information, advice, data, errors or omissions. Any information on this site is given without prejudice and used entirely at your own risk. You should verify the information to your own satisfaction to determine that it is correct. Safety and operating information provided does not apply to all our equipment and while much is common, equipment specific detail may not apply to other makes or models. There is no substitute for experience, training and a safe attitude to work. As our policy is one of continuous development of our products, exact specifications colours and designs may vary. All products, published material and information are design copyright.
Links to other web sites and Internet resources are made in good faith but are for interest only and do not necessarily reflect our opinions. We accept no liability or responsibility for information contained therein as this is outside our control.
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